Emerald Cut Diamonds: Everything You Need to Know

Emerald cut diamonds just the name brings to mind timeless elegance and classic style. With their sleek rectangular shape and step-cut facets, these diamonds have been turning heads for centuries, from royal courts to red carpets. But there’s more to them than just their beauty. They’ve got an interesting history and unique features that make them stand out.

This guide will break down everything you need to know about emerald cut diamonds what they are, their history, distinct characteristics, and even tips on how to choose the perfect one. Plus, we’ll answer some burning questions like, “Do emerald cut diamonds sparkle?”

Read on to explore the brilliance and charm of this classic diamond style. 

What is an Emerald Cut Diamond?

The emerald cut diamond with its unique elongated shape and step-cut facets, makes a timeless style that has fascinated jewelry lovers for centuries. Unlike brilliant cuts designed for maximum sparkle, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and depth, showcasing the diamond's inner beauty elegantly. But what exactly defines this unique cut?

The emerald cut is a rectangular or slightly square shape with trimmed corners. Its faceting style, called a step cut, has long, straight facets resembling steps going down into the stone. These facets run parallel along the diamond's bottom part creating a cool hall of mirrors effect that pulls your eye right into the center. That's what gives the emerald cut its unique and amazing clarity.

One of the most attractive features of the emerald cut is its ability to elongate the finger, making it a flattering choice for various hand shapes. Its clean lines and classic attraction make it a popular choice, emerald cuts often appear larger face up for their carat weight offering excellent value.

The History of Emerald Cut Diamonds

The emerald cut, with its distinctive long, rectangular facets and cropped corners, isn't a modern invention. Its history stretches back to venturing, evolving from techniques used for cutting gemstones long before diamonds were the primary focus.

The origins of the emerald cut can be traced to the 1500s. Back then, cutters were mainly focused on minimizing weight loss during the cutting process, especially with precious colored gemstones like emeralds. Emeralds, being naturally fragile, were prone to chipping at their corners. To prevent chipping, cutters began rounding the corners, creating a more stable and less fragile shape. This table cut was a precursor to what we now know as the emerald cut. It was a simple cut with a large table facet on top and minimal facets on the sides.

As diamond-cutting techniques improved, the table cut started being used for diamonds. At first, it was simple, but over time, cutters added more facets to make the diamonds sparkle more. These early versions of the emerald cut focused on highlighting the diamond's clarity and natural shine, rather than the intense sparkle and fire you’d see in cuts like the round brilliant.

In the 1920s and 1930s, the emerald cut became very popular during the Art Deco era. Its simple lines, square shape, and elegant look matched the style of the time. This made the emerald cut known as a classy and timeless choice. During this period, the cut was improved with better shapes and more precise details.

Characteristics of Emerald Cut Diamonds

Let's delve into its key characteristics:

Shape and Facets

The emerald cut is known for its rectangular or square shape with cut-off corners. Its step-cut design gives it a "hall of mirrors" look. Unlike round diamonds that are cut to sparkle a lot, emerald cuts have long, straight facets that run down the stone. These create flashes of light and dark, called "scintillation," instead of the intense sparkle you see in round diamonds.

Table and Depth

The table, or the big flat surface on top of the diamond, is large in an emerald cut. This means you get a clear view of the diamond, so clarity matters when picking one. Another thing to keep an eye on is the depth percentage—basically, how deep the diamond is compared to its width. Ideally, it should be between 60-70% to make sure the diamond doesn’t look too deep or too shallow. When the depth is just right, it adds to the overall beauty and sparkle of the diamond.

Length-to-Width Ratio

The length-to-width ratio determines how elongated or square the emerald cut appears. While there is no single ideal ratio. A ratio of 1.30 - 1.50 is generally considered a classic rectangular shape. Ratios closer to 1.00 will result in a more square shape. This ratio significantly impacts the overall look and feel of the diamond, so it is essential to consider your desired aesthetic.

Clarity Considerations

Because of the large table and step-cut facets, inclusions are more easily visible in emerald cuts compared to brilliant cuts. Therefore, clarity becomes a more critical factor. While a flawless diamond is always desirable, it is not always necessary or affordable. Look for diamonds with inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye. An eye-clean diamond where inclusions are not noticeable without magnification offers an excellent balance of quality and value.

Color Considerations

Just like clarity, color stands out more in emerald cuts too. Because of the larger facets, the diamond's body color is more easily seen. Therefore, choosing a diamond with a higher color grade which is closer to colorless is recommended, especially for larger stones. However, personal preference and budget should be considered. Some may find warmer tones attractive, especially when set in yellow or rose gold.

Pros and Cons of Emerald Cut Diamonds

Emerald cut diamonds, with their rectangular shape and flat step-like cuts, have a timeless look that many people love. However, like all diamond cuts, they have their pros and cons. If you're thinking about choosing an emerald cut for your engagement ring or other jewelry, it’s important to know both the good and the bad.

Pros of Emerald Cut Diamonds

• Focus on Clarity: The flat, open top of an emerald cut acts like a window into the diamond. This makes clarity very important. While some may see this as a downside, it brings out the beauty of clear, high-quality diamonds. If you pick a diamond with great clarity, the emerald cut will show off its purity. 
• Looks Bigger: Emerald cut diamonds often look bigger than round ones of the same weight, thanks to their longer shape and shallow cut. This is great if you want a larger-looking diamond without paying extra. The bigger top surface also adds to the effect. 
• Elegant and Unique Style: The straight lines and step-like cuts create a calm, refined sparkle, unlike the bright flashing of round diamonds. This "hall of mirrors" look is special to emerald cuts and appeals to those who prefer a timeless, classy design. 
• Strong and Durable: With their cut corners, emerald diamonds are less likely to chip compared to shapes with sharp points, like princess cuts. This makes them a good choice for everyday wear. 
• Budget-Friendly: Making an emerald cut wastes less material than creating a round cut, which can make emerald diamonds less expensive per carat. This means you might get a bigger or better-quality diamond for your money.

Cons of Emerald Cut Diamonds

• Visible Imperfections: The open table of an emerald cut makes flaws easier to see. It’s best to choose a diamond with high clarity (VS1 or higher) to avoid noticeable imperfections. Lower-clarity diamonds may show visible flaws. 
• Less Sparkle, More Flash: Emerald cuts focus on clarity and elegant flashes of light instead of intense sparkle-like round diamonds. They have less brilliance but more subtle flashes. It’s a matter of personal taste. 
• Cut Quality Matters: Since the cut is simpler than a round diamond, flaws in the cutting will stand out. A poorly cut emerald diamond can look dull. Always choose a reputable jeweler and check for good symmetry, polish, and proportions. 
• Shape Preference: The shape of an emerald cut depends on the length-to-width ratio. Some people like a longer shape, while others prefer a square look.

How to Choose the Best Emerald Cut Diamond

Emerald cuts are different from brilliant cuts, which are made to sparkle a lot. Instead, emerald cuts focus on the stone's clarity and simple beauty. Their step-cut design creates a "hall of mirrors" effect, with long, flat facets that reflect light in flashes instead of sparkles. But how do you choose the right one? Here's an easy guide:

1. The 4Cs with an Emerald Cut Twist:

While the 4Cs (Carat, Cut, Clarity, and Color) are crucial for all diamonds, their importance shifts slightly with emerald cuts:

• Cut (Most Important): With emerald cuts, the cut is paramount. It determines the diamond's overall proportions, symmetry, and brilliance (though a different kind than round brilliant). Look for:

1. Length-to-Width Ratio: This is what gives a diamond its shape. Most ratios fall between 1.30:1 and 1.50:1, with 1.40:1 being the classic choice.
2. Table and Depth Percentages: These can make or break a diamond’s sparkle. The sweet spot is a table percentage of 60-70% and a depth percentage of 60-75%. Straying too far from these numbers might leave your diamond looking dull or dark. 
3. Symmetry: Symmetry is important for emerald cuts. If the facets don’t line up perfectly, it can take away from the diamond’s overall beauty. So, aim for excellent symmetry!

• Clarity (Highly Important): Emerald cuts have big, open facets that can make inclusions more noticeable, so clarity is important more so than with brilliant cuts. For a clean looking stone, aim for a clarity grade of VS1 or VS2. You might get lucky with an SI1 that's eye clean, but you’ll need to inspect it closely. Try to avoid stones with inclusions right in the center of the table.
• Color (Important): Emerald cuts have big facets, which means they tend to show color more easily than brilliant cuts. It comes down to preference, but most people go for a near colorless stone in the G-J range. If you're setting the diamond in yellow gold, you can get away with going a bit lower in color (K-M) since the gold’s warmth helps hide some of the tints.
• Carat (Personal Preference): Carat weight is just a fancy way of saying how big the diamond is. Pick a carat size that works for your budget and the look you’re going for.

2. Look for the "Hall of Mirrors" Effect:

A well cut emerald diamond has this amazing "hall of mirrors" effect, where the long facets reflect light and create depth and dimension. If the diamond looks dull or flat, it’s probably not cut very well.

3. Check for the Bow Tie Effect:

Emerald cuts, like marquise and oval shapes, can sometimes show a "bow-tie" effect—a dark shadow across the middle of the stone. A slight bow tie is normal, but try to steer clear of diamonds with a noticeable or dark bow tie, as it can take away from the stone’s beauty.

4. Consider the Setting:

The setting you pick can change the vibe of your emerald cut diamond. Here are a few popular options: 

• Prong Settings: A classic choice that’s both timeless and secure, it lets in tons of light to make your diamond sparkle. 
• Bezel Settings: Perfect if you love a modern, sleek style. Bonus: it also keeps the edges of your diamond well protected. 
• Three Stone Settings: This one’s a favorite emerald cut that looks amazing with side stones like baguettes or trapezoids.

Popular Settings for Emerald Cut Diamonds 

1. The Classic Prong Setting

• How it works: Prongs are small metal claws that hold the diamond in place. Emerald cut diamonds have four prongs, one on each corner. 
• Why it works: The prong setting is a popular choice because it shows off the clean shape of the emerald cut. It lets in lots of light, making the diamond sparkle with its unique "hall of mirrors" effect. There’s also less metal, so the diamond stands out more. 
• Variations: Some designs use double prongs for extra security, especially for bigger diamonds.

2. The Bezel Setting

• How it works: A thin metal edge wraps around the diamond to hold it in place. 
• Why it works: The bezel setting protects the diamond’s corners from chipping and gives it a modern, simple style. It may cover more of the diamond than prongs, but it still looks great, especially for people with active lifestyles. 
• Things to think about: Bezel settings can make the diamond look a bit smaller, so keep that in mind.

3. The Three Stone Setting

• How it works: An emerald cut diamond is placed in the center with two smaller diamonds on each side, often in trapezoid, baguette, or triangle shapes. 
• Why it works: This design looks balanced and elegant. The side stones add extra sparkle and make the ring stand out. It also lets you get creative with different diamond shapes and sizes. 
• Popular Choice: This style is popular for engagement rings, symbolizing the past, present, and future of a relationship.

4. The Halo Setting

• How it works: Small diamonds surround the center emerald cut diamond. 
• Why it works: The halo adds extra sparkle and makes the center diamond look bigger. It also gives a nice contrast to the emerald cut’s simple shape, adding a vintage style. 
• Things to keep in mind: Halo settings are beautiful but can be more fragile and need more care.

Caring for Emerald Cut Diamonds 

Emerald cut diamonds have a large, flat top and require special care to maintain their shine over time. Their shape makes the corners easy to chip, so avoid wearing your emerald cut diamond ring during activities where it could be hit. Additionally, choose the best setting to protect the corners from chipping.

To clean it at home, use warm soapy water and a soft brush. Don’t use too much pressure on the ring; just gently clean around the diamond and set to remove any dirt and oils. Avoid using strong chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, as they can damage the ring or stone and dull its appearance.

Another important step is to have a jeweler check and clean your ring once a year to ensure it’s in good shape and maintains its sparkle and brilliance over time. Additionally, keep your emerald cut diamond ring in a soft pouch or box to prevent it from getting scratched by other pieces.

Conclusion

Emerald cut diamonds are all about elegance, sophistication, and timeless beauty. Whether you're looking for an engagement ring, a necklace, or even a vintage emerald cut ruby ring, knowing the basics can help you find the perfect piece.

Want more expert advice on choosing the ideal diamond? Visit your trusted jeweler or explore our comprehensive guide to diamond cuts at CaratBee today. Your dream diamond is just a step away!